Getting your planer board mast setup dialed in is one of those things that completely changes how you approach a day on the water, especially if you're chasing walleye, salmon, or trout on the big Great Lakes. While those little inline boards have their place, there's something about a true mast system that just feels more professional. It clears up the clutter, takes the weight of the board off your rod, and lets you run a massive spread without breaking a sweat.
If you're moving away from inline boards or just starting out with big water trolling, the whole mast thing can look a bit intimidating at first. You've got pulleys, heavy-duty tether lines, and a giant pole sticking out of your bow. But once you break it down, it's actually a pretty simple system that makes your life a whole lot easier when the bite is on.
Why bother with a mast system anyway?
You might be wondering why anyone would deal with the extra hardware of a mast when you can just clip a board to your line. The biggest reason is the "fight." When you're using inline boards, you're fighting the resistance of that board the entire time you're bringing a fish in—at least until you can trip it or unclip it. With a planer board mast setup, the board stays out on its own dedicated line. When a fish hits, your fishing line pops out of a release clip and you're fighting just the fish. It's a much more enjoyable experience, and you lose fewer fish because you aren't dealing with that extra drag near the boat.
Another huge plus is visibility and stability. Big dual-board or triple-board setups that run off a mast can handle much choppier water than a small inline board. They sit out there like anchors, keeping your lines spaced out perfectly even when the wind starts to kick up. Plus, having that high tow point on the mast keeps your tether lines up over the waves, which prevents the boards from diving or surging as much.
Choosing the right mast for your boat
When you start looking at gear, you'll realize there are a few different ways to go. You've got single masts that sit right in the bow, and you've got dual masts that have two reels—one for the port side and one for the starboard side. For most guys with a standard fishing boat, a dual mast is the way to go. It keeps everything centralized in one spot.
You also have to decide between manual and electric reels. If you're trolling all day every day, electric reels are a lifesaver. Dragging those big boards back in manually against the force of the water can be a real workout. That said, manual reels are bulletproof and a lot cheaper. If you're just getting started, a manual setup is perfectly fine. Just make sure whatever you buy is made of high-quality aluminum or stainless steel. The cheap plastic stuff won't last a season under the tension these boards create.
Mounting the beast
This is where people sometimes get nervous because it usually involves drilling holes in the boat. Your planer board mast setup needs a rock-solid foundation. Think about the physics for a second: you've got a six- or seven-foot pole with a lot of leverage, and at the end of that line is a board pulling with significant force. If your base isn't secure, you're going to rip something out or bend your deck.
Most guys mount their mast to a base plate on the bow. If you have a seat pedestal up front, some companies make adapters that let you drop the mast right into the seat hole. This is a great "no-drill" option, but you have to make sure that pedestal base is reinforced underneath. If it's just screwed into thin plywood, it's going to wobble. I always recommend using a backing plate—basically a big piece of aluminum or heavy-duty plastic under the deck—to sandwich the fiberglass or wood. It spreads the load and keeps everything stiff.
Rigging the tether lines and pulleys
Once the mast is up, you need to string it. Most people use a heavy-duty braided nylon or a dedicated planer board line. Don't try to use regular fishing line here; you need something with 200lb to 300lb test that won't stretch like a rubber band. Bright colors like neon yellow or orange are a big help because they let other boaters see exactly where your lines are heading.
The line goes from the reel, up through a pulley at the top of the mast, and out to your board. Make sure those pulleys are high-quality and spin freely. If they catch or rub, they'll chafe your line, and losing a $100 set of boards because a 50-cent pulley failed is a bad day for everyone.
Setting the boards and releases
Now for the fun part: getting the gear in the water. You start by letting your boards out. As the boat moves forward, the boards will catch the water and plane out to the side. Once the board is out at the distance you want, you lock the reel.
To get your fishing lines out there, you use "shower curtain" style releases or pinch-pad clips. You let your lure out behind the boat to the desired depth, then clip your fishing line into the release. You then slide that release down the tow line (the line connected to the mast). As you let out more fishing line, the tension of the water pulls the release further and further out toward the board.
It's like a clothesline system. You can stack multiple lines on one side this way. Just remember: the first line you send out goes the furthest toward the board. The next one stays a bit closer to the boat. This keeps everything organized and prevents the dreaded "spaghetti mess" of tangled lines when a fish hits.
Managing the spread on the water
The key to a successful planer board mast setup is maintaining tension. If you let the tow lines get slack, the boards will wander, and your releases won't slide down properly. You want to keep a steady trolling speed. If you need to make a turn, make it wide. Sharp turns cause the boards on the inside of the turn to sink or stall, while the ones on the outside speed up. A nice, lazy turn keeps everything under tension and prevents your lines from crossing.
When a fish hits, the line should pop out of the clip. If it doesn't pop on its own (common with smaller fish), you might have to give the rod a sharp tug to trigger it. Once it's free, the line drops back behind the boat, and you're clear to reel the fish in through the "open water" created by your spread.
Maintenance and safety tips
Before you head out, always check your tow lines for frays. These lines are under a lot of pressure, and a snap can be dangerous if someone is standing in the way. Also, keep your reels lubricated. Saltwater or even just road grime from trailering can gum up the drag systems on those reels, making it a pain to deploy your boards.
One little trick I've learned: if you're fishing in high traffic areas, put a little flag on your mast. Even though the boards are out to the side, people sometimes try to drive between your boat and your boards because they don't see the thin tether line. A big flag on the mast and high-vis line usually gives them the hint to stay back.
At the end of the day, a planer board mast setup is about efficiency. It takes a little more time to rig up at the boat ramp, but the control it gives you over your lures is unmatched. You can cover a massive swath of water, keep your lures in the strike zone longer, and actually enjoy the fight once you hook up. It might feel like a lot of gear at first, but after one morning of seeing four rods go off at once in a perfectly managed spread, you'll never want to go back to the old way.